Learning how to winterize a rv washing machine is one of those chores that's easy to forget until you're staring at a cracked water valve and a very expensive repair bill in the spring. If you've spent any time living the RV life, you know that water is both your best friend and your worst enemy. When the temperature drops below freezing, any leftover water inside your appliances expands, and since plastic pipes and metal valves aren't exactly stretchy, things start to snap.
If your rig has a stackable or a combo washer-dryer, you can't just drain the main lines and call it a day. Those machines hold onto a surprising amount of water in the internal pumps, hoses, and solenoid valves. Taking twenty minutes now to do this right will save you a massive headache later.
Why you can't just skip the washer
It's tempting to think that if you've blown out your RV's plumbing lines with air, the washing machine is safe. Unfortunately, that's rarely the case. Washing machines use electric solenoid valves to let water in. If the machine isn't powered on and told to open those valves, the air you're pumping through the lines just hits a dead end. The water trapped on the other side of that valve stays right where it is.
When that water freezes, it usually cracks the plastic housing of the valve. You won't even know it happened until you hook up the water in April, start a load of laundry, and realize your closet floor is suddenly a swimming pool. Trust me, it's much cheaper to buy a couple of gallons of RV antifreeze than it is to source a replacement part for a Splendide or Whirlpool unit in the middle of camping season.
Getting your supplies ready
Before you start, make sure you have everything on hand. You don't want to be halfway through the process and realize you're out of the "pink stuff."
- RV Antifreeze: Make sure it's the non-toxic pink stuff, not the green automotive kind. You'll probably need about two to three gallons depending on your setup.
- A bucket: To catch any drainage.
- A few old towels: Because let's be honest, you're probably going to spill a little.
- An air compressor (optional): If you prefer the blowout method, but most experts recommend the antifreeze method for the washer itself.
The antifreeze method: Step by step
This is generally considered the safest way to handle how to winterize a rv washing machine. It ensures that every nook and cranny—including the drain pump and the P-trap—is protected.
Prep the machine
First, make sure the washer is empty. No stray socks left in the drum. Turn off the water supply valves (usually located behind the machine or in a nearby cabinet). If you can't reach them, you'll be working from your main water pump.
Clear the lines
If you've already winterized the rest of your RV, your lines might already be full of antifreeze. If not, you'll want to connect your water pump to a jug of RV antifreeze using a winterizing kit or a siphon hose.
Run the "Hot" cycle
Plug the machine in and turn it on. Set the temperature to "Hot" and start a regular wash cycle. You only need to let it run for about a minute. What you're looking for is that pink antifreeze to start flowing into the drum. By choosing the hot setting, you're forcing the hot water solenoid valve to open and fill with antifreeze. Once you see the pink stuff in the drum, stop the cycle.
Run the "Cold" cycle
Now, do the exact same thing but switch the temperature setting to "Cold." This opens the other valve. Again, let it run until you see a good amount of pink liquid entering the machine, then hit pause or cancel.
The spin and drain phase
This is the most important part. Switch the dial to "Spin" or "Drain/Spin." This engages the drain pump. As the machine drains, it pushes the antifreeze out of the drum, through the internal pump, and out the discharge hose into your RV's plumbing. This also protects the P-trap (the U-shaped pipe) behind the washer, which prevents sewer smells from coming into your living space.
The blowout method (If you hate the pink stuff)
Some people really dislike using antifreeze because of the smell or the cleanup. If you decide to use compressed air, you have to be very careful.
You'll need to hook your compressor up to the city water inlet, set the pressure to about 30 PSI (don't go higher or you'll blow your plumbing seals), and then run the washer on a hot cycle, then a cold cycle. You have to listen for the air "hissing" through the machine.
The big risk here is the drain pump. Even if the lines are clear, the pump usually has a small reservoir that holds water. If you go the air-only route, you still need to pour about a half-gallon of RV antifreeze directly into the washer drum and run a quick "Drain" cycle to make sure the pump and the P-trap are protected.
Don't forget the lint filter and manual drain
Many RV washing machines, especially the front-loading combo units, have a small access door at the bottom. Behind this door is a lint filter and often a small manual drain hose.
Once you've finished the main winterizing process, it's a smart move to open that door, pull out the filter, and let any remaining water drain into a shallow pan. You might find a stray coin or a bit of hair in there too, so it's good maintenance anyway. If water stays in that filter housing and freezes, it can crack the entire pump assembly.
Common mistakes to avoid
Even if you think you know how to winterize a rv washing machine, it's easy to trip up on the details. Here are a few things to keep in mind:
- Not bypasssing the water heater: This doesn't directly affect the washer, but if you're pulling antifreeze through the system, make sure your water heater is bypassed so you aren't wasting six gallons of pink stuff filling up a tank that should just be drained.
- Forgetting the dispenser drawer: If your washer has a drawer for detergent and softener, some water can linger in the ceiling of that compartment. Give it a quick wipe down or a spray of antifreeze if you can.
- Ignoring the hoses: if you're disconnecting the washer for the winter, make sure the hoses are drained and stored somewhere they won't get kinked or damaged.
What about the spring?
When the birds start chirping and you're ready to head back out on the road, de-winterizing is pretty straightforward. You'll just hook up to a fresh water source and run the washer through a couple of complete cycles (with no clothes inside).
Use a little bit of detergent to help clear out any residue from the antifreeze. I usually run one cycle on "Heavy Duty" with hot water to make sure everything is flushed out. Once the water coming out of the drain hose is clear and no longer pink, you're good to go.
Final thoughts on winter prep
It might seem like a lot of steps, but once you've done it a couple of times, it becomes second nature. RVs are a big investment, and the appliances inside them aren't exactly cheap to replace. Taking the time to learn how to winterize a rv washing machine properly is just part of being a responsible owner.
Think of it as an insurance policy. A little bit of pink liquid and a few minutes of your afternoon will ensure that your first trip of the next season starts with clean clothes and a dry floor instead of a trip to the repair shop. So, grab your bucket and your antifreeze, and get it done before the first frost hits. Your future self will definitely thank you.